While In: Toronto - Bata Shoe Museum

When I headed to Toronto in February 2013, I had no idea that a major winter storm would hit the city. Even as I got on the plane to fly there, I didn't realize what the news reports really meant.  Here in Calgary when we get a lot of snow, its generally fairly compact, and the measurements given relate to how much precipitation has fallen, not how much snow is on the ground.  When the news reports said that Toronto had "two feet" of snow, I anticipated this to mean there would be about 10cm of snow on the ground. In fact.. there was two feet of snow on the ground, more in places where people had shovelled it into high piles.

Too much snow to do much at all

In Calgary, when it snows, trucks are on the ground with shovels, salt, and chemicals even before the snow starts to accumulate.  Even in 'bad weather' it's still reasonably easy to get around if you are on main streets, and homeowners and landlords have to clear their walks within 24 hours.  (Of course this doesn't always happen, but it's a good idea.  Likewise, in Calgary, we can usually trust a chinook will come and melt the snow within a few days of it falling.

This was not the case in Toronto.

I arrived, and waited another hour in the plane after landing for the pilot to find us a gate - the airport had become a giant plane parking lot because of all the cancelled flights. Once out, I caught a shuttle, but since my hotel wasn't one of the big ones, the shuttle would only take me to within 10 blocks of the hotel. When I had planned the trip, this wasn't a big deal - I could easily walk the distance with my small rolling suitcase... this wasn't the case with all the snow on the streets and sidewalks, making one block take over 10 minutes of struggle.

Needless to say, although I had planned many things to do while in Toronto for my brief visit, very few of these things were possible.  Cabs were hard to find, and busses and trams weren't running on time.

Luckily, I got to my show (The Guards of Glory Tour featuring Phantom, Stolen Babies, Firewind and Turisas) with plenty of time and got back to my hotel room safe and sound, but a lot of my other plans went out the window...

The Bata Shoe Museum

However, despite all of the mislaid plans, I did get to one "tourist" sight - the Bata Shoe Museum. 
Hundreds of shoes (from a collection of over 10,000 shoes) are on exhibit in this four-storey building in Toronto. I started on the lower level by dropping off my coat and backpack, and then proceeded through the floors in the well-thought-out galleries. Over 4,500 years of history are represented in the museum, ranging from the tiny shoes worn by Chinese who practiced foot binding, and ancient Egyptian sandals to Renaissance-era Turkish bath house sandals called nalins and Renaisance-era chopines - pedestal-like footwear worn in Italy and Spain. Current footwear is also on display - see Blue Suede Shoes or ponder the enormous footwear by a famous basketball player.

Beaded soles on aboriginal footwear

There's also a gallery devoted to the footwear (and thus also clothing and culture) of Canada's aboriginal people, from the plains to the northern lands. This is the semi-permanent exhibition, Beauty, Identity, Pride: Native North American Footwear. While we were there, I was most interested in the feature gallery of Roger Vivier. It was set up like a mix between art gallery and couture salon, with extravagant examples of his work throughout his career. Blue lace heels from the 1961-62 Christian Dior collection collaboration were shown alongside the original chalk sketches.

Extravagant lace heels

While fancy footwear might not be every metalhead's idea of a good time, the Bata Shoe museum is a very unique tourist experience, especially if you're interested in footwear and fashion.

Visit: The Bata Shoe Museum website
327 Bloor St W Toronto, ON M5S 1W7, Canada

Even more about Toronto

Wondering what else I was able to do while in Toronto despite the snow? Check out my craft/costume blog, Dawn's Dress Diary, and the posts tagged with "Toronto" like my post about bead shopping in Toronto, which I was able to do on my last day before flying home.

Or, check out the Food Blog I write for - Happy Sushi Belly, for photos of the snow in a post about La Merceria.  You can also check out:

• Kuni Sushi Ya
• Gallery Sushi
• All posts from Ontario

While In: Edmonton - Where to stay

I've been up to Edmonton a number of times, since it's the closest major city to my own.  (Still a good 3.5 hour drive up mind you!) I have a few good friends that I have stayed with in the past, but if you're not so lucky (or like me, don't always want to impose on friends, or don't want to stay in homes that are far from the action) you'll be looking for a hotel.

Where the action is

I like to stay downtown. While Edmonton's downtown area is a bit sleepy after 5pm on weekdays and most of the weekend... it's at least reasonably central which makes it easy to get in and out on transit.  It's also usually close to the main purpose of my stay - the venue where I'll be seeing a show.

I've stayed in a few different places, and each has ups and downs... Prices also fluctuate; on my last trip up to see PaganFest, my normal go-to hotel was way more expensive than a hotel only across the road from the venue which is normally much more expensive.  The lesson - check out a few different options before making up your mind.

One additional benefit of staying in the downtown core - transportation.  Both light rail transit, buses, the Greyhound and Red Arrow bus lines all stop downtown, and all of the places I've stayed have been within an easy walk of all.   (Even in Edmonton's predictably unpredictable winter weather.)  The downside - that 'sleepy' downtown experience.  While restaurants, grocery stores, and shops are all well within easy walking distance, the core tends to shut down pretty early, which means after a show I'm often going hungry if I haven't prepared in advance.

The suite experience

My go-to hotel in Edmonton's downtown core is the Alberta Place Suite Hotel. Suites are a great option for me when the prices line up right because it means there's a kitchen... so I can grab some groceries for those post-show munchies (when nothing else is open...)

The Alberta Place Suites is a bit of an older hotel though, and the last time I was there I noticed more than ever how much the hotel is in need of a bit of sprucing up.  Rooms are large, and there's a (freezing cold) pool plus a hot tub to soak sore muscles.  Their website has new photos which makes it look like they've done those updates since I was last there, but I can't say for sure that it's not just a one lucky room and the lobby!

Parking is included (or at least it was the last time I drove up) in their parkade. However, when I was there last the parkade was overfilled, and we had to park half a block away in an open church parking lot.  I also had a friend who's car was broken into, and his goods stolen when he parked in their parkade, so it's not as secure as one might hope.

Coast Edmonton House Hotel suite - I'm standing in the kitchen, and the door on the right is my bedroom.

However, the last time I was up in Edmonton for a show, the Alberta Place Suites was really expensive, so I picked the Coast Edmonton House Hotel which was basically across the road from the venue.  I was really impressed with this hotel, and if the price is right would stay again for sure! The building is a neat round tower and has fitness facilities, an indoor pool, and a convenience store on site.  The room I stayed in had a separate bedroom with en suite bathroom, a living room, kitchen, desk and two-person dining table as well as a private balcony.  The kitchen was a bit basic and a little out-of-date, but perfectly serviceable for a short visit.  I didn't drive up, so I don't know about parking costs (if applicable) but they have on-site parkade parking.

Visit: Alberta Place Suites Hotel website
10049 103 Street NW, Edmonton, AB T5J 2W7, Canada

Visit: Coast Edmonton House Hotel website
10205 100 Ave NW, Edmonton, AB T5J 4B5, Canada ‎

A bit more posh

I've also stayed at a higher-end hotel in Edmonton's downtown area, the Delta Edmonton Center Suite hotel.  I always think of "suite" as meaning it has a kitchen or kitchenette, but these rooms don't. Instead they have some rooms with in-room (as in, not in the bathroom) jetted tubs, which is a lovely feature if you have the time to take advantage. Inside rooms look into the shopping mall through floor-to-ceiling windows (which was great when I attended a conference there, because I could see the conference center too, and judge the line up to get in...).  I never had a "city view", but considering the location, I imagine that it overlooks the parking garage (which you'll have to pay to park in) and Greyhound station. Not nearly so nice.

Furnishings, amenities and linens are high-end at the Delta, and those tall windows are tinted so shoppers can't see into your rooms easily.  Being basically inside the shopping mall means it's fairly easy to get breakfast, lunch, and dinner within the mall hours, but it's still a bit of a walk through the indoor mall to get to Tim Horton's, which is the only establishment that opens early.  (Early enough for the pre-conference breakfast at least.)  Although the cost is usually higher, if you don't need the kitchen, this is a great downtown place to stay, especially if you can find a deal on the price. 

Visit: Delta Edmonton Center Suite Hotel website
10222 102 St NW, Edmonton, AB T5J 4C5, Canada ‎

Out of the core

If the West Edmonton Mall is your destination (as it was when I saw Apocalyptica at the now-closed Edmonton Event Centre)  then you'll likely want to stay somewhere close. Of course, there is the Fantasyland Hotel, which is directly in the mall (with a few very expensive themed rooms and the remaining plain rooms, also at a premium price) but I have never found the location desirable enough to justify the price.

Instead, I've stayed at the West Edmonton Mall Inn, across the street from the mall.  Incidentally, this is the same place that Apocalyptica stayed when they were in town; I ran into Paavo, one of the band members in the lobby as I was heading to grab a bite to eat, and he was heading back in from his run.   The Inn is a clean and simple 3 story  building without a lot of frills. There is an underground parking lot, and bars and restaurants are across the street in the mall (most are open late).  There's no pool or hot tub, and there's a bit of sound transfer between rooms, but not enough to keep me up.  The location is about 10 blocks closer than the nearest group of hotels to the mall, which makes it a good location if you're going to be walking a lot... however the prices are usually cheaper if you can stay a bit further away and drive or transit to the mall.

Visit: West Edmonton Mall Inn website
17504 90 Ave NW, Edmonton, AB T5T 6L6, Canada

While In: Edmonton - Devonian Gardens

I already mentioned the inner-city Muttart Conservatory in Edmonton, but if you're still up for a relaxing garden experience, you can head just outside of the city (you'll need a car for this trip) to the Devonian Botanic Gardens. 

Located south and west (about a 15 minute drive, depending on traffic) of the city's limits in Parkland County, transit doesn't visit this garden, owned and operated by the University of Alberta, but it's well worth a visit if you have a vehicle and the time to spend.

The serene Kurimoto Japanese Garden

The garden was established in 1959, and is a visitor attraction, a research site, and offers year-round educational programming for adults and children. There are regular special events that rotate and occur during the summer, so take a look at their calendar of events if you're interested in adding a little something extra to your visit.

The feature gardens include the Kurimoto Japanese Garden, filled with streams, delicate bridges, and a relaxing, zen-like atmosphere, the Temperate and Arid Showhouses, a Tropical Showhouse featuring exotic butterflies, a heritage garden, and trial beds. Additionally there is the highly educational Native Peoples Garden, and collections of roses, peonies, lilacs, lilies, and herbs. You can even sample some of the herbs right out of the ground if you're so inclined in specially marked garden areas. There's also the alpine garden, which is the best representation of the natural area right beside you, though I found this garden a bit underwhelming since it was my first stop.  My top choice would be the Tropical Showhouse followed by the Japanese Garden if your time is limited.

Butterfly in the Tropical Showhouse

The garden is open for visitors from May 1st until Canadian Thanksgiving (in October).  The garden has a small gift shop, and the "Birch Patio", a small, outdoor option for a quick bite to eat.


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Visit: Devonian Botanic Gardens Web page

While In: Edmonton - Muttart Conservatory

If you're traveling to Edmonton by yourself or with family, you might want to check out the beautiful Muttart Conservatory, nestled in the lovely Edmonton river valley.  Comprised of four glass interconnected pyramids, the conservatory hosts three different climate displays, plus one rotating showcase gallery. This is a great chance to pull out your camera and take some photographs, especially on rain days.

Looking from inside one pyramid to another on a stormy day

Bordered on two sides by the North Saskatchewan River, there is also an ample outdoor green space surrounding the Conservatory, which I found perfect for relaxing in the sunshine (once it came out!) but you might find it nice for a picnic too.  If you visit during nice weather, you'll likely also see at least one wedding party or high school prom-goers coming to the area for photographs.

Inside, you'll find the Tropical zone, Temperate zone, and Arid zones represented by the plants, flowers (and in the tropical zone, fish) from areas around the world.  Metalheads might be interested in Putrella (Pew-trella) - the "Giant Corpse Flower" or "Titum Arum", nature's tallest flowering plant, but you'll also see other, less brutally-named plants.

Hydrangea in the Muttart Conservatory

The Conservatory has a small gift shop as well, however I found it lacking in one important thing; batteries.  I ended up not getting nearly as many photos as I would have liked because early on in the tropical zone, my batteries died... and my extras were on the charger back in my hotel!


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Visit: The Muttart Conservatory Web Pages

Want more ideas for what to see and do in Edmonton? Click the "Edmonton" label and check out my recommendations!

While in: Edmonton - Getting around

If you're heading to Edmonton for a show (or any other reason!) there are lots of things to do in the city. Click the "Edmonton" label on this blog to see some of the things you might want to do in the area!

Getting around

Of course if you're driving there, just pull out your map (and by map, I mean the map application on your smartphone...) and put the pedal to the metal.  Keep in mind, that anytime the weather is nice, you'll likely face road construction at least once on your journey.  Also, in the spring, watch out for potholes in the road.

If you fly into Edmonton's international airport, you won't actually arrive in Edmonton - you'll arrive just outside of Edmonton.  Catch the Edmonton transit shuttle (which has free wifi so you can start planning your trip while you ride) and soon you'll be at a light-rail train station where you can either take the train or connect with any other Edmonton Transit bus.

Once you're in the city, transit is fairly easy to use; unlike larger cities there are no multiple zones, so you'll just pay one price for your ride. Get a 'transfer' if you want to connect to another bus within a set time limit from the driver.  You'll pay for your ride as you get on the bus. If you're taking the train, you'll pay using a machine (so have Canadian change handy - there usually are a few bill changers, but not always, and there are rarely shops to ask for change on site).  Keep the ticket it prints out as your 'transfer'. Again, you'll pay before you ride.

Visit: Edmonton Transit System website



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